Made-to-measure only works if the measuring is right. When we measure your windows ourselves the fit is guaranteed — but if you're planning ahead, comparing quotes, or just curious whether your windows are candidates, here's exactly how we do it.
The tools
A steel tape measure (cloth tapes stretch and lie), a pencil, and something to write on. Measure in inches, to the nearest 1/8". Resist rounding — the difference between 35 3/8" and 35 1/2" is the difference between a shade that glides and one that rubs.
First decision: inside or outside mount?
Inside mount sits within the window recess. It's the cleaner, more architectural look — the one you see in most of our photography — and it needs about 2" of flat depth for the shade to sit flush, a little more for larger cassettes.
Outside mount fixes to the wall or trim above the opening and overlaps it. Choose it when the recess is shallow, the window has cranks or handles in the way, or you want maximum light blockage — the overlap swallows the light gaps at the edges.
Not sure? Look at your window's depth and obstructions, and when in doubt, outside mount is the forgiving choice.
Measuring for an inside mount
- Width, three times. Measure the opening at the top, the middle and the bottom. Write down all three — walls are rarely as square as they look — and use the narrowest.
- Height, three times. Measure at the left, the center and the right. Use the longest, so the shade fully dresses the opening.
- Depth, once. From the glass (or the innermost obstruction — cranks, sensors, tile returns) to the front plane of the recess. This decides whether inside mount is on the table at all.
- Don't make deductions. Give the exact opening size. The maker takes the small operating clearances off the fabric width — if you deduct too, the shade arrives with a light gap on each side.
Measuring for an outside mount
- Width: the opening plus 2–3" of overlap on each side — more overlap, less light leak.
- Height: from where the cassette will sit — usually 3" above the opening — down to the sill, or below it if there's no sill to meet.
- Check the territory. Make sure the wall area is flat and free of light switches, vents and trim steps across the full bracket width.
The mistakes we see
- Measuring one spot and trusting it. The three-measurement rule exists because a 1930s window and a 2020s window are both crooked — just differently.
- Assuming both windows match. Even side-by-side "identical" windows can differ by a quarter inch. Measure every window you're covering, and label which is which.
- Forgetting the handles. Crank handles and window locks live exactly where an inside-mount shade wants to travel. Note anything that sticks out, and how far.
- Using last year's numbers. New windows, new tile, new trim? Old measurements are stories, not specs.
Or: don't do any of this
Our in-home consultation is free, takes about an hour, and ends with a fixed written quote. We laser-measure every opening, we own the fit — if we measured and it doesn't fit, we remake it free — and you get to judge real fabric in your real light while we're there.
Book the free measure, read about how the whole process works, or start by trying fabrics on a room in the visualizer.
